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A Critic Savors ‘Kinetically Juicy’ Nepali Dumplings in University Village


Plus more critical acclaim for Galit

Mike Sula samples a variety of delicious Nepali-style dumplings at The Momo World. The fish momo is “so kinetically juicy that it comes close to a credible xiao long bao” while the choela momo is a “fiery” pillow — stuffed with chicken or veggies and stained with chiles, peppercorn, and pickled tomato — that “may be the Nashville hot chicken of the dumpling world.” Other options include a “mean” goat biryani and sekuwa, a traditional Nepali dish featuring roasted meats marinated in yogurt, chiles, peppercorn, turmeric, and coriander. To finish, fried chocolate momo, filled with ganache and drenched with chocolate syrup, “reveals the platform’s potential to cross over into state fair territory.” [Reader]

Galit impresses another critic with exceptional Middle Eastern cuisine. Chef Zach Engel’s passion for making sure “each dish is the best version you’ve ever tried” comes through in his hummus, “golden-hued and creamy, which pairs with coal oven-baked pita touting a crispy, charred exterior that puts all others to shame,” writes Ariel Cheung. Falafel is a “must-order,” countered by pickled turnips and labneh, while “delicious” beets are finished with black garlic tahini, dill, and pumpernickel crumble.

Dishes that might be less familiar to diners include kubbeh halab, lamb fritter “wrapped in a crisp saffron crust that feels street food-level indulgent,” and lamb-stuffed cabbage packing “spicy, pungent flavors.” Desserts are a “bit of a letdown” but the Middle Eastern-heavy wine list shouldn’t be overlooked. And cocktails, such as the Arak-based Saz Arak, are a “fun dive into how Middle Eastern ingredients can add complexity.” Although it’s already off to a hot start, Cheung thinks Galat is “the kind of restaurant that, like a fine wine, only improves with time—no question about it.” [Modern Luxury]

Grant Park Bistro is an appealing French spot for a midday meal according to Joanne Trestrail. It’s located on the ground floor of Essex Inn and the “small but appealing lunch menu is well executed by chef de cuisine Zeus Alvarez.” Silky chicken liver mousse is an “elegant starter” topped with cherry mustard, pickled onion, and sprigs of thyme, and quiche Lorraine is also “right on the money.” Grilled salmon is another winning dish but its accompaniments — roasted celery root, apple, and pickled fennel — are a bit “oversweet.” The only clunker is a fettuccini entrée “undercooked to the point of chewiness.” And if weather permits, “alfresco lunch on the patio is delightful, well worth a walk down a few blocks” from all of the popular attractions. [Crain’s]

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